Evapo-Rust and Ultrasonic Cleaner Meets Model B Transmission Parts

Evapo-Rust and Ultrasonic Cleaner Meets Model B Transmission Parts

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Model B Outer UJ Cap Pre Treatment
Model B Inner UJ Cap Pre Treatment

As you can see the caps above were still in a pretty rusty state and this was after some soaking in paraffin.

So onto the next stage which involved the double team of Evapo-Rust and the Ultrasonic Cleaner

Model B Inner UJ Cap Post Treatment
Model B Outer UJ Cap Post Treatment

And as you can see after about a day just soaking in the Evapo-Rust and then a few hours in the Ultrasonic cleaner the results are very pleasing.

Model B Rear Gearbox Mount

The mount as you can see is in similar condition and is currently residing in the paraffin bucket and is destined for the Ultrasonic/Evapo-Rust combo if it it will fit!

4 thoughts on “Evapo-Rust and Ultrasonic Cleaner Meets Model B Transmission Parts”

  1. Bill McCoskey – I was born with a greasy wrench in my mouth instead of that silver spoon. My parents and their friends all said I could tell them make, model and even year of most cars by the time I was 5. I bought my first car [1948 Packard] at age 14, and by the time I had a driver's license, I had 2 more Packards. My education was electrical and electronics engineering, but also having ADHD, I realized it just wasn't going to be a good idea to sit behind a desk 5 days a week. After school, The US Army decided to draft me, sending me to mechanics school. On arrival in Central Germany, I discovered the attraction to rare and unusual European cars. Once back in the USA, I started my own antique car business, and I've owned, bought and sold over 1,500 vehicles to date. My interests tends to run towards the rare and unusual, 1930s thru 1970s. Auto Union SP1000 to Tatra V8, Studebaker Golden Hawk to Rolls-Royce Cloud I, 1938 Ford convertible sedan to 1959 Cadillac Eldorado convertible, my tastes are pretty eclectic and wide ranging. My profile photo is me behind the wheel of the 1956 Packard Predictor, at the National Studebaker Museum.
    Bill McCoskey says:

    Because I owned a restoration shop for 30+ years, I was always searching for various means to de-rust and clean metal parts. I’ve used chemicals and even sugar beet liquid in a sawdust emulsion [it really works, but takes a long time, and there is the drawback of it attracting mold on it’s surface.] I even bought a large Toroidal vibrating machine that used ceramic media and detergents, like the C & M TD75 from Eastwood. That unit is great for polishing small metal and plastic parts too.

    I didn’t discover Evapo-rust until I had closed my shop, but I’ve been using it on my own antique cars and antique house repairs ever since. It uses Chelation action to change ferrous oxide [rust] back to ferrous iron or steel, and it is not something that removes metal back to non-rusted metal. It’s also safe to use with bare hands, and is not a solvent. It’s water soluble too.

    Evapo-Rust WORKS, and it can be used more than once before it finally needs replacing as it’s action slowly diminishes from use. If you have delicate ferrous metals in need of corrosion elimination, you want this product in your shop or garage.

    Reply

    1. Thanks Bill, excellent comments as always. Will see how many turns I get out of it. What I tend to do on the really dirty stuff is an old school soak outside in a paraffin bucket for a week or so. Then a blast with the compressed air, clean and into the Evapo-Rust to keep as much junk out of the solution hopefully making it last a bit longer.

      Reply
  2. Bill McCoskey – I was born with a greasy wrench in my mouth instead of that silver spoon. My parents and their friends all said I could tell them make, model and even year of most cars by the time I was 5. I bought my first car [1948 Packard] at age 14, and by the time I had a driver's license, I had 2 more Packards. My education was electrical and electronics engineering, but also having ADHD, I realized it just wasn't going to be a good idea to sit behind a desk 5 days a week. After school, The US Army decided to draft me, sending me to mechanics school. On arrival in Central Germany, I discovered the attraction to rare and unusual European cars. Once back in the USA, I started my own antique car business, and I've owned, bought and sold over 1,500 vehicles to date. My interests tends to run towards the rare and unusual, 1930s thru 1970s. Auto Union SP1000 to Tatra V8, Studebaker Golden Hawk to Rolls-Royce Cloud I, 1938 Ford convertible sedan to 1959 Cadillac Eldorado convertible, my tastes are pretty eclectic and wide ranging. My profile photo is me behind the wheel of the 1956 Packard Predictor, at the National Studebaker Museum.
    Bill McCoskey says:

    Evapo rust does have one drawback, the item to be de-rusted must be immersed in the Evapo-rust, and for large parts that means multiple gallons of material. One can set up a pump and flex lines to pour the evapo-rust over a large piece, but it has to be constantly applied for hours or days, depending on the amount of rust to Chelate. Unless you keep it covered, this flowing action causes rapid evaporation.

    Reply

    1. Agreed on this point, Evapo-Rust has certain use cases. My friend at OzCraft ozcraft.co.uk has a professional shop with all the latest and greatest cleaning methods, but it’s a 40 min drive away and I don’t like to abuse the privilege 😀

      Reply

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