Posted in Buick, Car Restoration, Grand National

JUNKYARD RESCUE! Buick Scrap National – Classic GBody Garage


Another great Buick Grand National revival, this time from Classic B Body Garage

This 1987 Buick Grand National was sold for scrap and rescued! I will be going through this car to bring it back to life and get it back on the road. Project Scrap National begins

Learn the proper steps to get an old car running again that has been sitting for years. I teach you how to perform a complete compression test and determine the condition of the engine. This 1987 Buick Grand National was sold for scrap and rescued and I am continuing the work to get it running and back on the road again.

Rescued 87 Buick Grand National is finally getting a bunch of new parts and it’s closer to running once again! This 1987 Buick Grand National was sold for scrap and rescued and I am continuing the work to get it running and back on the road again.

Learn how to replace a gas tank, fuel pump and sending unit! This 1987 Buick Grand National was sold for scrap and rescued and I am continuing the work to get it running and back on the road again.

Posted in 1974, Car Restoration, Hemmings

Project Apollo X: Perdition by the dashboard light – Joe Essid @Hemmings


The end of 2020 meant that my 1974 “rolling restoration” Buick Apollo wore a few coats of primer and ran well enough for longer road trips. It still needed some attention paid to small items after five years of heavy lifting.

A few things inside the car have been bothering me a great deal. As always, my mistakes and small triumphs are here to encourage readers to pick up the tools and DIY it. An average Joe, even one who is a faculty member in an English Department, can get an average old car back on the road. Why wait for that perfect (mentioning my favorites) E-type or GTO? Start with something you can afford, even something with four doors, and learn by doing.

After my last column on the car, we did indeed go apple-picking before the arrival of what passes for winter in Virginia these edgy days. I was working on other projects during the cool months, so the Apollo went only on a few jaunts.

Then, around New Years, I removed the dash to put in a vintage radio and address a few other issues. I’d yanked a hideous aftermarket RADwood-era FM radio with a cassette player, a box with flashing turquoise lights and busy displays, taking it to the electronics recycler. Begone! Then I began to hunt down a Delco from the mid-1970s that would fit. Or mostly fit.

I imagined that as soon as I switched my radio on, I’d hear songs coming from David Bowie’s swan-song to Glam, Diamond Dogs. You remember? Halloween Jack who lived in Hunger City, atop the ruins of “Manhattan Chase”? There was nothing cooler for a 14-year-old in the second half of the Cold War. Our parents had built fallout shelters just before we were born; we early Generation Xers joked about rushing with tanning blankets to Ground Zero. Bowie was whistling with us in the Atomic Dark.

With my luck, however, I figured the first sound I’d hear would be “Muskrat Love” by the Captain and Tennille.

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Posted in 1958, Car Restoration, Dodge, Hemmings

A 1958 Dodge Royal Lancer battles back from project car to show winner – Jim Black @Hemmings

Big fins and wide whitewalls were all the rage in the late ’50s and no one did it better than the Chrysler divisions. Dual exhausts were an extra cost option. Jim Black

United States car sales slumped in 1958 due to a nationwide recession, but, on the heels of a successful 1957, Dodge rolled out an updated lineup. The division’s 1958 cars were longer, lower, wider, more colorful, and sported an abundance of chrome. Plus, Dodge’s model offerings consisted of the entry-level Coronet, the Royal, the Custom Royal, and a new, top-of-the-line Regal Lancer. Dodge described them as the “Swept-Wing” 1958s in all of its marketing brochures.

Phil Shaw, from Auburn, Nebraska, is a 64-year-old retired UPS driver and Mopar enthusiast of the first order. Phil was looking for a retirement project that spanned the 1957-’59 Dodges when he came across a 1958 Dodge for sale online. The owner was from Norway, the ad was confusing to read, and a gallery of low-quality photos made it difficult to determine the car’s overall condition.

“The owner told me he had purchased the car online, from a seller in Bradenton, Florida, and then had it shipped to a shop in Rosenberg, Texas, to begin the restoration,” Phil says. “But after some work had been done he halted the restoration. He found out a short time later that he was terminally ill with cancer and decided not to see the job through.”

An RCA record player was a rare option not found on many cars of this era. The 45-rpm player held 13 records and played them upside down, so that the weight of the record kept the needle from skipping.

At that point, the car had also been completely disassembled and media blasted, and the shop had performed some sheetmetal repair on the floorpans and trunk floor. Reluctantly, Phil decided to bid on the ’58, not sure exactly what to expect since he had not seen the car in person. He won the auction and purchased the car in January of 2011. No other potential buyers bid against him, which sent up another red flag.

“I picked the car up a few days later. All the window glass had been discarded, and all the parts were in boxes and not well identified,” Phil says. “I examined the bare body and saw that a lot of rust repair was needed around the back window, but the rest of the body seemed to be solid and in good shape.”

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Posted in 1941, Car Restoration, Classic Cars, costs, Coupe, Flathead Ford, Ford, Ford Flathead V8

Pick of the Day: 1941 Ford 2-door coupe with classic car finance lesson – Tyson Hughie


Restoration expenses once again far outstrip the value of the finished product

If there’s anything that owning a “project vehicle” has taught anyone, it’s that restoration work almost always ends up being much-more expensive than originally anticipated.  And while it’s rewarding to be part of an extreme makeover, sometimes it means taking a loss when it comes time to part ways and offer that vehicle up to the collector marketplace.

Many classified listings these days include some variation of the phrase, “You can’t build it for what I’m asking.”  And that statement rings painfully true in many cases

A private seller on in Longview, Texas, is offering an 80-year-old custom Ford at a fraction of the investment that it took to restore.  The Pick of the Day is a red 1941 Ford Super Deluxe two-door coupe complete with receipts totaling $100,000 and a selling price that is significantly lower.

“The price to build was right at $100k,” the listing states.  “Invoices are available which will list all of the individual components plus the shop labor hours.” 

The rebuilt Jasper flathead engine alone, now having accrued only a few hundred miles since installation, reflected an expenditure in excess of $10,000, according to the ad.

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Posted in Car Restoration

A verified, numbers-matching 1971 Plymouth Hemi ‘Cuda is muscle-car royalty – Terry Shea -@Hemmings


Authenticity. Documentation. Veracity. Call it what you will, but few things get muscle car collectors going quite like verifiable, real-deal examples of the truly elite, low-production cars that were rare even when new. And of that class of muscle cars, the 1971 Plymouth Hemi ‘Cuda stand out as exceptionally elite. Only 107 hardtops were produced for the U.S. market that year, like this example now up for bids at Hemmings Auctions.

Across the muscle car landscape, 1971 was the beginning of the end. Except, that is, for the Mopar E-Body. As Jeff Koch put it in the June 2019 issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines

ven in its own time, a Hemi E-body was a throwback. Broad-shouldered and squat-stanced, the ‘Cuda/Challenger siblings were the last of the muscle era cars to be styled with a T-square instead of a French curve. As earth tones crept into Detroit’s paint palette, the sassily named High-Impact colors (“Citron Yella,” “Tor-Red,” “Sassy Grass Green,” “Plum Crazy,” et. al.) demanded that even grave men, near death, who see with blinded sight, take notice. But that was just style. The Hemi remained an undiluted performance prospect. In a hesitant new world of eight-point-something compression ratios, the Hemi proudly retained its 10.25:1 squish. In an era when Detroit was facing a life of two-barrel carburetors, the Hemi had two carburetors. Four barrels each, thank you. At a time when high-lift camshafts were quietly being tamed, the lift and duration on the Hemi’s hydraulic grind remained stout.

All that fanfare didn’t make the Hemi ‘Cuda popular, of course, which today means the ones that survived have turned in to blue-chip collectables. There are other rare muscle cars, of course, but few combine that scarcity with sheer street-pounding horsepower

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Posted in Car Restoration, Car Restoration Tip, Hemmings

10 Auto Restoration Dos and Don’ts – Barry Kluczyk @Hemmings


DO: Maintain insurance coverage

Anything can happen during the course of the restoration and, while the shop’s insurance will provide coverage for some incidents, it’s important to maintain your coverage for others. The shop could go out of business overnight, leaving you with only pieces of your car—or missing pieces of the more valuable components. Hedge your bets.

DON’T: Be afraid to ask questions

What kind and/or brand of paint does the shop typically use? Is it going to media blast the body or chemically strip it? If it doesn’t do its own engine work, who does it typically use? Get into the weeds of your restoration, so you’re clear about hows and whys of the work.

DO: Your homework

Be the champion for what’s correct for your car, particularly if the shop doesn’t necessarily specialize in your vehicle. Provide the guidance on surface finishes, model-year specifics, and other elements that will make the restoration more authentic.

DON’T: Hover over the restoration shop

Let the shop do its work. Helicoptering over the project, because you live nearby, invites stress on your part and the craftspeople doing the work. A few in-person visits to track progress is fine, but don’t make the shop your weekly haunt. You’ll annoy the staff and interrupt the shop’s workflow.

DO: Be clear about authenticity

Do you expect period-correct T-3 headlamps to be installed or are parts store replacements suitable? What about a date-coded fan shroud? Or NOS parts? The shop will build the car to your demands, so be sure to discuss and be clear about the level of authenticity you want in the vehicle.

DON’T: Change course midstream

It happens often: A simple repaint turns into a full-blown restoration, or standard resto turns into a concours-ribbon-chasing project. Changing course midway through the project inevitably requires the shop to backtrack and redo work. That adds time and money. Make your plan before the shop starts and stick with it

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Posted in bonneville, Bonneville Speed Trials, Car Restoration, Salt Flats

Bonneville Salt Flats sign stolen – Jordan Miller @TheSaltLakeTribune


The Bureau of Land Management’s Salt Lake Field office reported that the Bonneville Salt Flats welcome sign has been stolen.

According to a Twitter post from the BLM, the sign was discovered stolen on June 11. The Bonneville Salt Flats, located in Tooele County, are listed as “one of Utah’s most iconic landscapes,” with 30,000 acres of hard salt crust on the western edge of the Great Salt Lake Basin.

On June 11, BLM Salt Lake Field Office discovered the Bonneville Salt Flats sign had been stolen. If you have info to help locate it, contact (801)977-4387| Theft of federal property: Class A misdemeanor punishable by up to 12 months in prison/fines up to $1,000— Bureau of Land Management Utah (@BLMUtah) June 16, 2021

Individuals can report any information they may have on the theft to 801-977-4387. The crime is classified as a Class A misdemeanor, punishable by up to 12 months in prison with fines up to $1,000.

Posted in Car Restoration, Car Restoration Tip, Hemmings

What to consider when reassembling your first restoration project – Thomas A. DeMauro @Hemmings


We’ve already covered 12 questions to ask yourself before tearing down your first project car. Now, once you head down that path (or if you’re already there), here are some additional tips for reassembling the object of your admiration once the paint and bodywork have been completed, and the powertrain and other individual parts have been restored. It’s an exhaustive list, because a full restoration is no small task. As always, the more planning and care you take, the better the results will be.

Whether you choose to do much of the work yourself or have the pros perform some, most, or all of the restoration tasks, your ride still requires careful reassembly. And that process can prove satisfying for first timers and repeat restorers alike.

For the teardown article, we spoke with Jamie Cooper and Joe Griffith of Super Car Restoration in Clymer, Pennsylvania, but for this one, we consulted with Brian Henderson and Joe Swezey of Super Car Workshop in Latrobe, Pennsylvania, to learn more about efficient reassembly processes and to acquire some additional time- and aggravation-saving tips.Coincidentally, both shops have “Super Car” in their names and both have partners named “Joe” in their respective ownerships, but are separate entities. They are friendly with each other, and Super Car Restoration does the body and paintwork for Super Car Workshop.

Brian and Joe have been restoring award-winning first-generation Camaros and other models for nearly three decades, and though the order of assembly provided here may require slight revisions in a few areas for differently designed and/or full-frame cars, the rest of the information will still help you with your project.

Budget, Parts, and Supplies

Consult that budget, which has likely increased several times since you first developed it prior to and during teardown. Also check your parts and supplies lists to see where you’re at and what you’ll still need. Before you begin reassembly, make sure that you have everything on hand to complete at least one of the specific segments in an order that provides the fewest slowdowns or repeat work. For instance, if you are doing a body-off restoration, before rejoining the body and subframe (or full frame), depending upon your situation, you may be able to break the project down into a few large assemblies that can be built separately from one another, such as:

Front chassis: Bolt the suspension, brakes, wheels and tires, and engine and transmission onto the subframe (or full frame).

Rear chassis: Install the rear end, suspension, and wheels and tires on the frame of full-frame models. These components can be added to the underside of unitized- or semi-unitized-construction cars, but only do this if the body will be mated to the front subframe while the rear tires are on the floor and the front of the shell is held up with jack stands or another safe method. Don’t install the rear suspension and rear end on a unitized car at this point if a lift will be used later to lower the body onto the front subframe, because adding the rear end will increase the rearward weight bias of the body and will likely make it unstable on the lift.

Body shell: Install the firewall items, glass, wiring, and interior, etc. Keep in mind, however, that Brian and Joe typically load the shell with these parts before mating it with the subframe because they have the benefit of a lift for raising and lowering the body easily. If you’re trying the rejoin the body and subframe (or full frame) using jacks and jack stands, or by another approach that doesn’t include a lift, adding the weight of these items to the body can make it more cumbersome to work with, so you may choose to reinstall them after the body and subframe are bolted back together.

Seek Advice

Members, model year tech advisors, and the research library of the same club you joined and consulted when buying and/or tearing down your car can also provide assistance when you’re reassembling it. Don’t underestimate the value of the knowledge base available from this resource.  Also discussed in the teardown article, if you used a restoration shop to do any of the previous work, you should be able to request some reassembly advice

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