When Bob Beenenga of rural Tonica pulls his 1932 Ford Model 18 Roadster up to the beachfront starting line at The Race of Gentlemen this June, he’ll be crossing something off his bucket list, and honoring the racing legacy of an original hot rod.
The Race of Gentlemen, or TROG, is a multi-day throwback to the origins of auto racing. The event’s exclusive 1/8 mile drag races, held on a beach in Wildwood, N.J., only allow cars built before 1934 — with no parts newer than 1953.
Read the rest of Chris’s article here
Seriously? It’s April 4! This is not roadster weather! Actually, I don’t mind, because I’m not finished up yet anyway. We have driven the car a couple of times, it has 20 miles on the odometer, enough to find a couple of little bugs that I’ve taken care of (the shifter selector shaft seal, and a radiator hose that wasn’t quite tight enough, which I fixed, but now the gas gauge isn’t working), and I still need to get the canvas on the top made and get it licensed, but, there’s light at the end of the tunnel.
I had “Fly’n Brian” painted on the tail pan at “Motorama” at Cobo Hall, in a tribute to the cars original name, “Flying Flathead”, where we debut the car. I’m very happy with that, although the casual observer won’t know the story. I also got the set of steel ’49 Chevy…
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Ford Flathead V8!!
Modeled after a 40s 239 block and after market accessories.
This is my most detailed model yet. All accessories including spark plugs were modeled. Over 200 hours print time for all parts. Almost two full rolls of filament.
All my models are printed on a Prusa i3 kit. You can find the one I use by clicking the link below. You can get 15% off by using code “GBTE”
Tronxy Prusa I3
You will need to print on an 8×10″ glass bed and change the “X” travel distance settings in the firmware to print the block.
Complete hardware kits are available. I partnered with MakerRX. Head over to their page to purchase my kit and get 10% off HatchBox/ColorFabb Filament which is some of the best filament that you can get for the price.
Took the Model B gearbox over to my friend John to give it a look over, not surprisingly we found very little wrong with the exception of some damaged threads where the gearbox top mounts
The Model B into Model A conversion is rarely done and is quite complex meaning quite a bit of research and parts gathering will be required. John has kindly started to gather some of the parts as you can see below.
An adaptor plate to secure the Model B gearbox to the Model A engine, tailshaft/torque tube adaptor and sheet metal to modify the Model A sump have already been sourced by John. A number of other challenges such as mounting the handbrake, swapping the release arm to LHD, pedal box and radius arm modifications and Flywheel machining just to name a few! A gear lever for the Model B gearbox is on the way.
My friend John Cochran put me in touch with a very nice chap in Scotland named Ian Caldwell who happened to have a Model B gearbox for sale. The Model B gearbox offers the advantage of synchromesh over the Model A by removing the need to double declutch.
In a synchromesh gearbox, to correctly match the speed of the gear to that of the shaft as the gear is engaged the collar initially applies a force to a cone-shaped brass clutch attached to the gear, which brings the speeds to match prior to the collar locking into place.
Now I still need to gather quite a lot of extra parts to effect the conversion, these include a clutch pedal, shift lever. I’ll post the progress!
Great article from the Jalopy Journal on the Ford Model 15-P Flying Wing, the last aircraft developed by the Stout Metal Airplane Division of Ford Motor Company.
The aircraft was powered by an aluminium version of the 221 cubic inch version of the Ford Flathead V8 developing 115hp as opposed to the cast iron car versions 75hp.
The A has been running badly of late, especially stalling out at junctions making driving a bit less than enjoyable. The car has a B carburetor fitted on the A manifold which hasn’t been milled out to match the carb (confirmed by measuring) Upon removing and stripping the carb I found that the mounting flange and therefore the carb throat has a crack which has been repaired.
Whilst I had the carb off I gave it a good clean and put it back on for the time being. Surprisingly after resetting the mixture and idle the car runbs and drives well. Decisions to be made on the carb and manifold soon!