Automotive American – Classic Vintage & Modern
Tag: Model A
The following is a bunch of photos I took while rebuilding a multi disc type Model A transmission, along with illustrations from the service bulletins and ‘The Ford Model A Service Manual and Owners Handbook of Repair and Maintenance’.
There are several differences in the transmission case and internal parts over the years of production.
In this video, we will take you behind the scenes and disassemble this one-of-a-kind engine design revealing some cool stuff. You will see how the worlds fasted Ford Model A engine was redesigned by Pete Aardema and Kevin Braun. This 93-year-old engine is officially in the books as the fastest Ford Model A on the planet with a record speed at Bonneville of 238.5 MPH. Pete and Kevin we will take us through the build process and disassemble the top end and explain how they redesigned this engine which incorporates a unique cylinder head that may be the only 3-piece cylinder head of its kind the exist on this planet. For more information, please review part one of this video to hear directly from Pete Aardema how this engine design came about.
Landon Rush likes to keep busy. He’s a husband, a father, an Iraq and Afghanistan war veteran who is still serving in the National Guard, and he owns five, no wait… I think it’s six, hot rods. I’m really excited to have one of those hot rods in GHR, his very cool and very classic Flathead powered 1929 Ford Roadster Pickup.
“I’ve only had the pickup about a year,” Landon told me. “It was a quick build. I had a hot rod years ago, then I got into customs and trucks, and I wanted to get another hot rod. I saw this on Criag’s List. I sold my ‘58 Chevy truck to pick it up. I blew it all apart and quickly redid everything.”
And Landon wasn’t kidding about redoing everything. Body, frame, engine, transmission, rear end, suspension, interior – the whole works. It was amazing to me that he did it all in one year.
“The one thing I have going for me is that I work quick,” he said. “I try to do quality work in the least amount of time without taking any shortcuts. I get ’em done so I can enjoy them.”
Of course the Flathead engine between the frame rails caught my eye. It’s a 1950 OB8 model, displacing 239 cubic inches. It has all new ISKY internals and Edelbrock aluminum heads and intake manifold. That manifold has two Stromberg 97 two-barrel carbs, complete with vintage scoops from Lucky Burton of Lucky’s Speed Equipment Parts (@luckyburton on Instagram), mounted on it.
And just in case you haven’t been paying attention, that’s a ‘29 Ford with a Flathead engine, dual Strombergs, and ISKY and Edelbrock components. Can you get a more classic hot rod than that?
The Flathead’s exhaust is also vintage. The chromed exhaust headers mount up to a megaphone exhaust pipe that Landon constructed from cutting a 1935 Ford driveshaft in half. “That’s what they were doing back back in the 50s,” Landon told me. “They’d take the driveshaft and chop it in half and use that to make the lake pipes.” He welded a 90 degree bend with a flange on to the header and the megaphone exhaust pipe bolts to the flange.
I asked Landon if he had any mufflers in that exhaust. “No,” he said. “It’s straight pipe. And it’s got a little bit of a lope because of the ISKY cam. I like to get on it. It’s loud as sh…”
Well let’s just say Landon said it can be really loud.
Another excellent video from Paul, this time he take us through frequently asked questions from his channel. Amusing and informative as usual 🙂
After driving a 1931 Ford Model A as a daily driver for just over a year, your master Model A mechanic has some advice and answers your questions.
Another great video from Paul, best Model A content on YouTube!
Frank Maniatis so treasured his 1929 Ford Model A Roadster that 75 years after he bought it, the car still owns a special place in his daughter Tina Higgins’ heart — and her garage. From cross-country pleasure trips to lumber hauling, makeshift repairs and patched-up fenders to a full restoration — and even a tearful homecoming after it had been stolen — this family heirloom has just about seen it all. For more visit http://www.hagerty.com/articles-video… Subscribe! | http://bit.ly/1sddOmD Hagerty supports, entertains, and informs the automotive enthusiast community across a variety of media and social platforms, including https://hagerty.com/media
This load of three new 1930 Model “A” Fords is on a semi-trailer manufactured by the Taylor Truck-a-Way Co. of Los Angeles, CA. At the time, a rig of this type was used for local and regional transport, and long-distance transport of automobiles was handled primarily by train. The lightweight trailer frame is constructed in the form of a lattice truss that is resistant to bending. The lower part of the fifth wheel hitch on the truck is of the conventional type but uses a lightweight horizontal top section, as seen in the second photo below.
Removing Valves from a Ford Model B Engine
As part of the inspection of the Model B engine it was found that the valves were seized due to the amount of time that the engine has been laid up.
With a bit of a two man effort and the correct Ford valve spring compressor and valve guide “knocker” tool the valves and guides were extracted. The guides and followers are in really good shape. Will most likely replace at least the exhaust valves.
Removing Valves from a Ford Model B Engine
Related – Model B Engine Inspection
Related – B is for Banger
This years Old Ford Show at the British Motor Museum at Gaydon was very well attended by cars up to 1995. The admission ticket gave access to the show and full entry to the excellent museum. The showground surrounds the Museum and the Collections Building with it’s mainly Jaguar and reserve car content
This is a predominately UK Ford based show but the American based turn out was of a good quality with a stunning 1904 Ford Model C a highlight.
The swap meet was of a pretty good quality if mostly angled towards the newer cars, John Cochran and Brian Bignell. The MAFCGB had a good variety of Model As represented.
The “Quick Point Gap Setter” tool is a very simple way to solve an awkward challenge.
Some may say it’s a lazy way out, but for me it makes the operation so simple it’s a no brainer particulary when out on the road.
First remove the distributor cap, rotor and the distributor body to gain access to the breaker points. Always
inspect the contacts to see that the surfaces are not burnt or pitted. If replacement of the point arm is required,
refer to Les Andrews’ “Mechanics Handbook” to replace the original style point sets. The newer “Modern”*
point sets are replaceable without removing the distributor cam and upper plate. Once the new arm is in place
and the cam is reattached, set the points using this tool.
1. Loosen the clamp screw on the top of the fixed point block (on original style points), on modern points
loosen point mounting screws.
2. Remove the rubber stopper from the tool and set it aside.
3. Manually open the points sufficiently to slide the Cylinder (the Shell) of the tool over the cam so that the
sleeve covers the cam lobes.
4. Release the move-able point arm so that the rubbing block of the move-able point arm rests on the
outside of the sleeve.
5. Use the thickness gauge that projects from the rubber stopper to gauge the gap between the fixed
contact and the move-able contact.
6. Once you have achieved this setting, tighten the clamp sleeve on the fixed contact (original style), or
modern points tighten the mounting screws, and remove the cylinder from the cam.
7. Place the stop
