As with the seat base the seat back on the Coupe had also had some previous “attention”
Once the cover and padding was removed the inspection began with a clean up
Once again the dangerous sharp fencing wire was removed and again a number of the springs were in need of repair
Again the springs were given the foam treatment after repair
An extra foam support was cut to sized and added to the top of the seat back for additional support for the springs at the top of the seat back
Webbing was also added for further support, belt and many braces!
The hessian base was then attached to the seat back springs using hog rings, along with the extra foam support.
The foam and wadding was then attached using hog rings and a little tape to keep the shape whilst the cover is being installed
The cover was then installed using hog rings as per the norm.
Some more foam was added to the he rear of the seat back before the vinyl on the trim was glued and refitted
The set back was then test fit into the Coupe.
Again this is how we did this and it worked for us!
Before beginning the removal of the rest of the rivets, I found that the left A pillar windscreen moulding that we originally thought would be difficult to remove proved to be easier than expected, so no need to remove the header rail
Now it was time to tackle all of the rivets on the left A pillar windlace retainer with the Dremel tool
After masking everything as best possible it took around two hours to grind off the heads off the rivets and then driving out the remains out with a centre punch. This enabled the removal of the retainer and the remains of the original windlace.
Been putting it off for some time but the time has come to get it done!
Windlace is the weatherstrip that fits around the door aperture.
On an older car the strip is fitted via a number of methods, nails, rivets and retaining strips and sometimes even glue.
First job was to refurbish the upper retaining strips on both doors
A lot of old oddly coloured paint and two different sorts of windlace side to side was found.
First job was to start sanding the pieces down and treating them with Hammerite Direct to Rust paint on the rear.
Next activity was to prep the front of the strips and apply four coats of filler primer. After the primer had dried for 24 hours it was then lightly flatted with 2500 wet and dry abrasive. After this the surfaces were cleaned with pre-painting wipes. Following this four coats of top coat were then applied.
Back soon with Part 2